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The Log, Part 2; The First Tapes! Here is the first step in gluing together the sections into a thing that actually looks like a boat! It appears that the bulk of the project is a matter of compounding these basic steps. Having gotten this step out of the way, I'm feeling good about the rest... like Bob Oram says... "it's not swiss watch making".
 Because the level concrete floor makes setting up the forms easier, I'll put together sub sections in the shed and then move them to the tent to assemble. The keel panel is laid in first to precise measure, checked for level. The plans give exact measure of each form from the tip of the keel panel. The last form had to be levelled out by hand as it extended out of the shed.
The keel panel is measured in place then a screw placed in the centre fastens it to the form. After measuring to each side of a form from the centre of the previous form to insure square, two more screws are placed on the outside edge. The laser level was shot at marks on the forms that indicate water line and level.
 Preparing a panel for the bilge, I found another faulty panel (resin already going off at time of pressing at the factory) that had been missed before. Thankfully it is a bilge panel so the aesthetic issue isn't a big concern. Hope there isn't a mechanical issue with this kind of fault, delamination??
 From aft you can see how the forms line up the sections and torture them into shape.
 For now the tent is a great staging and prep area. Here stripping off excess peel ply and cleaning dirt off the edges.
 Keel and bilge panels are now lying in place.
 All the sections have to be fastened down to insure alignment whilst gluing. On the hard corners I found sections of bracing strap with 15 mm button head screws were perfect. On panel that didn't have as much angle the method following is faster, easier. see below.
 Get the panel aligned by sight or touch, be fussy! Then start a screw in straight....
 Then just as it starts to bite, twist it upwards...
 until the angle matches the plane of the bottom panel and screw it in. As many as it takes to align and secure the panel. If you keep all screws within 40mm of the joint, the holes will all be covered incidental to future taping.
 With a set of panels in place it's time... I bought the little electronic scale at the left from ALDI stores (brilliant place!) for $25. The resin is mixed by weight at a ratio of 4 to 1 for this particular resin. Be accurate! Roughly 125 grams resin per 1 metre of 750 gram tape. (I actually got away with less) After a thorough mix with the paint stirrer I rolled the surface to be taped with a 3" paint roller (see 2
 photos below) and then started wetting the tape that had been previously measured to the length of the join and flaked out on the table. Move steady but don't waste a second. A drizzle of about 25mm across the tape should be about right and quickly roll it in. The bottom layers will get benefit from rolling above layers so don't get excited if the tape doesn't appear to saturate fully at the start.
 Like I said above.. a quick roll before wetting the tape.
 Set aside the tape and mix a batch of bog. Different resin with about 75% again of a 50/50 mix of "Q-cell" and "Cab-0-sil". Work into place with a steel tool with about a 25 to 30mm radius.
 After spreading with the tool, clean off the excess on the sides of the fillet with a flat scraper.
 Now get your flaked bunch of wetted tape and lay in place gently.
 Smooth out any air voids and align as you go.
 The bow is a bitch but nevertheless must be done properly.
 Just a close up to see what it should look like at that stage.
 A fast check back all along to make sure there is no air trapped anywhere.
 Then the peel ply.
Roll the PP all the way to length. Then come back with the consolidation roller to work it into the tape and finish wetting the whole thing.
 This is the best I could do with the peel ply because I was out of time. It was tense getting this far. After this first tape I experiemneted with a couple methods and found I liked to bog with the tool below early and let it get stiff, then mix the taping resin and really take my time to get it right.
 The bogging tool I'm using here is a tilers grout spreader cut in half. Load it and..
 spread it! You can use pressure and angle to set depth of the fillet and how clean you leave the adjoining area.
With the bottom panels taped I got a hand and moved the sheer panels in. Using a couple screws just to hold it in place in this shot.  
 I have left the inner sheer panel out of place in this shot. That allowed me more room to work on the bow area of the outer sheer panel which I will do first. I have already bogged the fillet here.
 I'm using a better respirator here and I'm working up quite a sweat as I put real effort into the roller. I like it so the peel ply looks like clear paper over the glue and no filament of the tape stands out. I'm mostly rolling verticle from bottom to top. This brings some resin back up that naturally wants to run downhill.
 The routine I got into was to do the filleting, let go firm, then lay in the tape and quickly peel ply and roll. With remaining time, I then go back over the tape rolling carefully until everything goes clear. If there is any resin left, I keep it handy at this point to wet a spot if needed to make a smooth edge. In this photo the tape at left is the first go and at right is the finished part.
 This is the finished product. The white you see is the bog under the resin.
 Inner and outer sheer panels in place and next step is the chamfer panels and bulkheads.. but right now I have a paper to produce and web site to update....
 A brief note on the method I used for the gluing of the panels described in a previous page.. in spite of the problems with it because of the poor factory scarfing process, the method is great. I cleaned off the glue lines so easily with an angle grinder to leave beautiful flat surfaces... no way I would do it different!!  
 We had some frustating delays in getting this far due to projects like Kay and I pouring about 50 sq metres of concrete and the big tent that we wanted for assembly. The weather really slowed down this part of the process. Wind and rain are not desirable for either project and thats what we had all summer. A benefit of all that work is that we won't be as weather dependent from now on and... all that left over black plastic that you use for concrete work has been found to be very useful. I would recommend having some of that around for a project like this. It's cheap as and available at most any hardware store or builders supply.